Carefully drill the holes in the neck. Next, you must drill the holes into the neck. I’ll use a 1/16" drill bit, but the screws you’re working with may be a different size, so choose a bit to match. ), remember that the finish will make the neck pocket smaller—it will build up on the edge of the rout. The improved version of the classic Fender Strat Bridge, The most consistent, top quality Strat® replacement body on the market today. To keep the bit from wandering off your mark, first run the drill in reverse for a moment, then switch it to forward and drill the hole. With a sharp-pointed scribe, mark the screw hole locations. Match your screwdriver to the size of the screws, so you don’t damage the heads. Tightening the truss rod pulls the neck backward, so simply tighten the adjusting nut to straighten a neck that has an up-bow. The previous owner had plugged the original top two holes with toothpicks. The two or three holes in the heel of our pre-finished necks are for manufacturing as well as holding the neck during the finishing process. If the body is unfinished and you are pre-assembling the instrument (highly recommended! Be sure that a portion of the straightedge is over the body at the bridge's location. Next, locate and center the neck in the neck pocket/body. MEMBERSHIP IS NOW AVAILABLE IN FINLAND! This opens up the subject of fine-tuning your setup and action: check out Dan Erlewine’s book, The Guitar Player Repair Guide for details on fret leveling and dressing. If you like to set your string action low, you may find you have some buzzing frets on your new neck. Place a neck bolt through the neck plate and body. The simplest way is to place the neck plate into the pocket and properly position it in the rout (refer to the drawing for the proper location). Attach the retainer and string your guitar up. After center punching the neck bolt locations, determine the proper size drill bit (most neck bolts use a 1/8" diameter bit) and chuck it into your drill. The measurement "A" is 5/8" for guitar, 1-5/16" for bass. I’ll use a 1/16" drill bit, but the screws you’re working with may be a different size, so choose a bit to match. Now the string’s acting as a straightedge to show whether the neck is up-bowed or back-bowed. Follow these steps and you’ll have your replacement neck playing great! Press the string down firmly at the first, and up around the 19th fret. Clamp the neck to your bench as you drill the holes. If you like to set your string action low, you may find you have some buzzing frets on your new neck. Place the neck into the neck-pocket and check its fit. We recommend using a drill press to maintain squareness and proper alignment. The holes must be properly sized and located so that the neck is secure in the pocket, insuring that the vibrations and resonance of the instrument are not compromised. This works as a depth stop, and it helps you hold your hand drill perpendicular to the neck. I'm not a fan of the toothpick method, so when I plugged the second set of top holes, I drilled the neck and used walnut dowel to plug them. We use cookies on our website to make sure you get the best experience. Locate the string retainer (often called a “string tree”) in the same place as on the neck being replaced, or refer to a neck like the one you're installing for placement. Use your soap or wax on the screws, and run them into the neck holes to thread them before attaching them to the neck (they'll go in easier, and the holes will be sealed against moisture with the wax). It’s snapped deep inside. Insert the four neck bolts into their holes, and tap them with a hammer to mark their locations on the neck. Just snug enough to hold the neck in place as you position it. Make it small enough that the screw threads bite into the wood, but not so small that it’s difficult to drive the screw. You can use a neck attachment screw as a center punch to mark the screw hole locations, or run an 11/64" drill bit through the body in reverse to give you nice divots to guide your bit when you drill the neck attachment screws. I’m using a set of Gotoh oval knob tuners (the pegholes on our replacement necks are 10.5mm, to match most sealed-back tuners). This makes them turn easier into the hardwood neck, and makes it less likely that you’ll break a screw. This guide block is handy: We recommend using a drill press to maintain squareness and proper alignment. (Use a small clamp with thin wooden shims on the clamping surfaces to hold the neck in place during this process.) ), remember that the finish will make the neck pocket smaller—it will build up on the edge of the rout. Be sure to compensate for the finish buildup or the neck will be too tight after finishing. This opens up the subject of fine-tuning your setup and action: check out Dan Erlewine’s book, The Guitar Player Repair Guide for details on fret leveling and dressing. What the heck!

Windows 10 Taskbar Not Working After Update 2020, How To Cook Rice And Quinoa Together In Rice Cooker, Tv Ir Sensor Blocked, Mini Bites Recipes, 12 Week Powerbuilding Program, Matte Black Fender Stratocaster, French Luxury Brand Abbreviation, 2016 Harley Davidson Ultra Limited Windshield, Restaurants In Piney Point, Md, Mayonnaise Calories Teaspoon,