Joe Cicala, executive chef of Le Virtú in Philadelphia, uses two types of Italian canned tomatoes, one DOP San Marzano (Gustarosso) and a pointy cherry tomato also grown in Campania called Piennolo (Casa Barone), which are on the savory side and have their own DOP designation. Legitimate San Marzano tomatoes carry the acronym DOP on their labelling, from the Italian phrase "Denominazione d'Origine Protetta.". You can also look for a certification of the consortium by finding the seals for both the DOP and the consorzio, as well as a certification number for the tin at the bottom. We can’t get enough of them.”. Their PR shines; every chef recommends them, but I wonder how many have actually tasted them next to American tomatoes.”. And perhaps that is where the breakdown between San Marzano–skeptical cooking experts and chefs originates. Copyright 2020 Leaf Group Ltd. / Leaf Group Media, All Rights Reserved. Their flavor is strong, sweet, and less acidic than other varieties of tomato. These tomatoes give your sauce a thicker consistency, and are sweeter, richer, and less acidic in flavor. Aside from its status as a protected designation under EU and international law, the San Marzano tomato is a plum-type cultivar that can be grown anywhere other tomatoes flourish. A true San Marzano is labeled as “Pomodoro S. Marzano dell’Agro Sarnese-Nocerino.” The long, unwieldy phrasing doesn’t have the same marketing punch as those two easy-to-pronounce words, perhaps another clue to its realness. Pastene: The Flavorful San Marzano Tomato, Martha Stewart; Cured San Marzano Tomatoes Recipe; Missy Robbins. This makes San Marzanos excellent for canning or sauces. At times, when canned San Marzanos or other tomatoes are not available, it may be possible to secure fresh San Marzano tomatoes from a local grower. San Marzano tomatoes are the gold standard of canned tomatoes, heavily marketed all over the world. Among the most essential of essential pantry staples, the quality of canned tomatoes can make all the difference in a dish, as opposed to, say, flour. Fred Decker is a trained chef and certified food-safety trainer. And Epicurious named them second, just bested by Indiana’s RedPack (also labeled as Red Gold in certain regions), in their own experiment for simple pasta sauces. They’re produced by just one guy, Sabatino Abagnale. The San Marzano is longer and thinner than most plum tomatoes, with thick and meaty flesh and relatively little juice or seeds. But even then, it’s something of a toss-up. Unlike faux Chanel bags, though, you can buy San Marzanos in legit stores, which is why the sheer number of knockoffs is jaw-dropping. However, unlike how organic produce is regulated, there is no regulation … San Marzano tomatoes are the BEST kind to use for marinara sauce. We use canned for sauces, and I figured that if I grew my own, I could make even more wonderful sauce. The reason why there are so few true San Marzano brands? Mari Uyehara is a food and travel writer based in Brooklyn. San Marzanos are only certified whole or in fillets, peeled, and canned. Interestingly enough, DOP-certified Gustarosso doesn’t even use the word “San” on its label. The latest in food culture, cooking, and more. Food writers are working with ingredients that home cooks can easily find at the neighborhood grocery store, where all the San Marzanos are fakes. And in near mythical fashion, old Italian farmers grow them in the volcanic soil around Mount Vesuvius, which famously erupted in AD 79, leveling the Roman cities of Herculaneum and Pompeii in a vicious flood of molten lava. One of the more iconic brands in the U.S., with graphic white labels and pretty red illustrations of the plum tomato, is not even from Italy, even though its name is “San Marzano.” Look closely on the label and it says “Grown Domestically in the U.S.” The company is merely named after the famous tomatoes, which is completely legal to do in the U.S. named them second, just bested by Indiana’s RedPack, graphic white labels and pretty red illustrations of the plum tomato. Copyright 2020 - Taste, A Division of Penguin Random House LLC. With all this fraud going on, I wondered if chefs even used San Marzanos. But good chefs don’t shop at the grocery store and test out all sorts of specialty suppliers to find the best possible ingredients available. None mentioned a grocery store brand. What seems to be the issue with San Marzano tomatoes is widespread fraud.
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